1. Currently.

     
  2. inkarrowsmag:

    Issue Seven of Ink & Arrows Magazine is OUT NOW! It features interviews from, our cover artist, Nikita Kaun, Jared Tuttle, Kim Wells, Elliot Phillips, Ophelia Mercedes & many more!

    Click the image to read or click here!

    website // twitter // facebook // instagram - @inkarrowsmag // storenvy // issuu 

    Check out the latest issue of Ink & Arrows Magazine, featuring work and words by the ever-humbled Me and a ton of other rad artists!

     
  3. Installation, last March/April. Photos can be found at my website. Video filmed and edited by Adam Miller, rad brother and filmmaker.

     
     
  4. Proof of work.

     

  5. Anonymous said: I have a C&P 10X15 Press circa 1923 and was amazing by your restoration. Mine is not very rusty but could use a good cleaning and was wondering what your process was. What did you use to clean? - Anna Brown

    Thank you! I was amazed by how well it cleaned up as well; when I started, I really had no idea what a beautiful machine was under all that grime!

    The building the press came from went through a fire a while ago, and the press was therefore covered in soot, ash, dust, and rust, plus years of ink buildup. Rusty areas were scrubbed with steel wool and Scotch-Brite pads. (If the rust had been any worse than it was, it could’ve been removed with the help of Naval Jelly.) De-rusted areas were then degreased and waxed to seal the bare metal. Since your press isn’t very rusty, there probably won’t be much of this process required.

    The rest of the press wasn’t terribly rusty, just in need of a really good cleaning. The initial layer of soot, etc. was so thick that I scraped it with an ink knife and then took a shop vac to the whole thing. After that, it was a lot of hours of scrubbing with kerosine, rags, and used Scotch-Brite pads. I rarely used new Scotch-Brite pads or steel wool because I didn’t want to take the factory paint off the parts of the press that weren’t meant to be bare metal. It took me a bit to learn the difference between the sooty parts, inky parts, and factory-painted parts. Depending on how dirty your press is and what color it was originally painted, this may not be as difficult for you as it was for me.

    Feed and delivery boards were just wiped down. They didn’t require refinishing.

    From a functional standpoint, it was also important to address the gears and oil holes. A lot of the oil holes were filled up with dirtiness and needed to be cleaned with anything that would effectively get the gunk out. Wire, pipe cleaner, etc. works well for this. I also removed lots of dust, bits of paper, and other stuff that had worked their way into the gears. The final step was applying more grease to the gears and fresh oil to the oil holes.

    (There were several other steps necessary to get the press up and running - calibrating rollers, checking the wiring, adjusting the motor for best belt tension, etc. - but they didn’t have much to do with the cleaning process.)

    Good luck with your press! I’m sure you’ll have it back to new in no time! :)

     
  6. At it again. [commission.]

     
  7. Currently at the University of Wisconsin - Manitowoc for Really Big Prints, a steamroller print event. Carved most of the block before arriving, continuing carving the first few days, printing at the end of the week.

     
  8. Press is done! Fully refurbished 10x15 1950 C&P.

    Free of rust, dust, ash, ink, oil and grease build-up. New rollers. New runners. New tympan bale. Expansion trucks. Working motor. Freshly oiled and greased. AWWW YEAHHH.

     
  9. like night and day. continuing press restoration on a 10x15 C&P. (“presstoration,” if you will)

     
  10. #PrintmakerHands